Thursday, 15 November 2012

Lecture FIVE// Subculture & Style

Notes in Lecture 





Lecture


In sociology, anthropology and cultural studies, a subculture is a group of people with a culture (whether distinct or hidden) which differentiates them from the larger culture to which they belong.




Ian Borden ‘Performing the City’


Urban street skating is more ‘political’ than 1970’s skateboarding‘s use of found terrains: street skating generates new uses that at once work within (in time and space) and negate the original ones 


Lords of Dogtown (2005)


“Skateboarders do not so much temporarily escape from the routinized world of school family and social conventions as replace it with a whole new way of life.” (Borden:2001)
Parkour/Freerunning
ParkourA method of movement focused on moving around obstacles with speed and efficiency. Originally developed in France, the main purpose of the discipline is to teach participants how to move through their environment by vaulting, rolling, running, climbing and jumping. Parkour practitioners are known as traceurs. They train to be able to identify and utilize alternate or the more efficient paths through the city

Free Running 


A form of urban acrobatics in which participants, known as free runners, use the city and rural landscape to perform movements through its structures

Yamakasi (2001)


Jump London (2005)


Nancy McDonald The Graffiti Subculture


Here (on the street) real life and the issues which may divide and influence it, are put on pause.  On this liminal terrain you are not black, white rich or poor.  Unless you are female, ‘you are what you write’.

Black graffiti writer Prime says:I mean I’ve met people that I would never have met, people like skinheads who are blatantly racist or whatever. I can see it in them and they know we know, but when you’re dealing on a graffiti level, everything’s cool and I go yard with them, they’d come round my house , I’d give them dinner or something.

Miss Van 



McDonald suggest that women come to the subculture laden with the baggage of gender in that her physicality (her looks) and her sexuality will be commented on critically in a way that male writers do not experience
Swoon (US)



“In the meantime there was a lot of attention coming my way for being female, and it just made me feel alienated and objectified, not to mention patronized.  ‘Look at what girls can do-aren’t they cute?’ To hell with that shit. I don’t want it.”
Angela Mc Robbie and Jenny Garber.

Girl subcultures may have become more invisible  because the very term ‘subculture’ has acquired such strong masculine overtones (1977)


Brigitte Bardot 1960’s
Suggests sexual deviance which is a fantasy not reflective of most conventional real life femininity at the time
Hells Angels 



In rocker and motorbike culture girls usually rode pillion
Wills 1978: girls did not enter into the cameraderie, competion and knowledge of the machine
In this subculture women were either girlfriend of.. Or ‘mama’ figure
Mod Girls 



Mod culture springs from working class teenage consumerism in the 1960’s in the UK
Teenage girls worked in cities in service industries for example, or in clothing shops where they are encouraged to model the boutique clothing
This meant they had money for socialising and mod rallies.
Quadrophenia (1979)




Hebdige outlines the hierarchies within the mod subculture where “the ‘faces’ or ‘stylists’ who made up the original coterie were defined against the unimaginative majority…who were accused of trivialising the mod style”
Hippy girl



Subculture arises through universities  of the late 60’s and early 70’s
Middle class girl therefore has the space to explore subculture for longer before family etc.
Space for leisure without work: encourages ‘personal expression’
‘Bad’ hippy/’good’ hippy


 Janis Joplin



Peace and ‘flower power’



Riot Grrrl- mid 1990’s onwards


Underground punk movement based in Washington DC, Olympia, Portland, Oregon and the greater Pacific Northwest
Bands


Bikini Kill, Bratmobil, Excuse 17, Heavens to Betsy, Fifth Column, Calamity Jane, Huggy Bear, Adickdid, Emily's Sassy Lime, The Frumpies, The Butchies, Sleater-Kinney, Bangs and also queercore like Team Dresch
Cold Cold Hearts, side project band of Allison Wolfe of riot grrrl band Bratmobile, playing 'Sorry Yer Band Sux' live at Black Cat, Washington, D.C. 3/7/97


The Raincoats, Poly Styrene, LiLiPUT, The Slits, The Runaways/Joan Jett, Patti Smith, Chrissie Hynde, Exene Cervenka, Siouxsie Sioux, Lydia Lunch, Kim Gordon, Neo Boys, Chalk Circle, Ut, Bush Tetras, Frightwig, Anti-Scrunti Faction, Scrawl,and Fifth Column


Mount Pleasant Race Riots in 1991
Bratmobile member Jen Smith (later of Rastro! and The Quails), reacted to the violence by prophetically writing in a letter to Allison Wolfe: "This summer's going to be a girl riot."





Wolfe and Molly Neuman collaborated with Kathleen Hanna and Tobi Vail to create a new zine and called it Riot Grrrl, combining the "riot" with an oft-used phrase that first appeared in Vail's fanzine Jigsaw "Revolution Grrrl Style Now”. Riot grrrls took a growling double or triple r, placing it in the word girl, as a way to take back the derogatory use of the term

Zines revived from 1970’s DIY punk ethic

In turn this was influenced by posters and graphic design from the Dadaists in the 1920’s 30’s

Women self-publishing their own music



Raoul Hausmann- Dada
ABCD Self-portrait (1923-24)

“Like the author of the the surrealist collage typically juxtaposes two apparently incompatible realities” (Hebdige: 1979)




Courtney Love and Hole
Style without the subculture
Distorts even further as the 90’s continue into the more more media friendly Spice Girls  use of phrase “Girl Power”



Band styling presents a set of visual ‘types’ that are easily consumable by the target audience
There is no empowerment for young women as there is nothing but the reduction of young women to cartoon representations

 
“Subcultures represent ‘noise’ (as opposed to sound): interference in the orderly sequence which leads from real events and phenomena to their representation in the media.”
Offence caused by lyrics and behaviour is important as it leads to questions about ‘the parent culture’



Subcultural signs like dress styles and music are turned into mass produced objects
Eg: clothing which is ripped as an anarchic anti-fashion statement becomes mass produced with rips as part of the design


Zandra Rhodes 9ct White Gold Diamond Safety Pin Brooch
Although punk seems to challenge eventually and surprisingly quickly it goes mainstream/high end and is turned into “To shock chic” which marks the end of the movement as a subculture.

Teddy boys 





Teddy boy culture was an escape from the claustrophobia of the family, into the street and ‘caff’. While many girls might adopt the appropriate way of dressing, they would be much less likely to spend the same amount of time hanging about on the streets. Girls had to be careful not to ‘get into trouble’. (Mc Robbie, Garber) In early 1954, on a late train from Southend, someone pulled the communication cord. The train ground to a halt. Light bulbs were smashed. Police arrested a gang dressed in Edwardian suits. In April two gangs, also dressed Edwardian-style, met after a dance. They were ready for action: bricks and sand-filled socks were used. Fifty-five youths were taken in for questioning. The following August Bank Holiday the first 'Best Dressed Ted Contest was held. The winner was a twenty-year-old greengrocers assistant. The Teddy Boy myth was born.

Originally published in 1979, The Teds is now being re-published by Dewi Lewis. A classic of British documentary photography, it is a vivid and absorbing book combining the images of Chris Steele-Perkins with a text by Richard Smith, to tell a fascinating story that spans some three decades.
http://www.chrissteeleperkins.com/books-content.php?id=7


Racists give Nazi salute in London, 1980


Gavin Watson Skins (1980’s)



This is England (2006) Shane Meadows


The new kid on the estate transforms into a British Skin
His dad has been killed in the Falklands War and his new friends become a surrogate family

The film explores the difference between the skinhead style and the politics of the National Front skins as they infiltrate the working class estate in the UK in the 1980’s



The subordination of Milky as ‘other’ by Combo


No comments:

Post a Comment